White Mountain NP – TRAVEL WORDS

Postcards from Around the World

Leaf Peeping in New England (6)

[Leaf peeping is an informal term in the United States and Canada for the activity in which people travel to view and photograph the fall foliage in areas where leaves change colours in autumn, particularly in northern New England]

When I was teaching it meant holidays could only be taken during the school holidays when it was more expensive and busy. And I couldn’t tag on to the OH’s conferences either. Which is why during one October half term we decided to do a fly drive holiday to the eastern side of the USA and do a spot of leaf peeping.

The last part of this autumn trip was to spend a few days on Cape Cod, south of Boston which meant about a 5 hour journey without stops, so pretty much the full day. We set off after breakfast and because I am never fond of doing the same route twice I decided to head down and around Lake Winnipesaukee which is the largest lake in New Hampshire, located in the Lakes Region at the foothills of the White Mountains. It is in a pretty stunning location and I would not say no to a holiday in one of the lakeside resorts there. Unfortunately the weather was much the same as yesterday with dark clouds and rain.

After briefly stopping to look at the lake views we continued south and joined the I93 at Tilton. As I mentioned earlier, Cape Cod is to the south of Boston, which means of course having to traverse the city. And that meant entering the tunnels. Where you have to keep your wits about you so that you don’t miss the turn off. Traffic speeds through these tunnels (though it is supposed to be restricted to 45mph) and having seen one car bounce off the central reservation just before entering them I was already a little nervous! Afterwards I’m not sure why I didn’t take alternative routes around the city!

Leaving the interstate at Quincy we joined the Pilgrims Highway (3) which later becomes the Grand Army of the Republic Highway (6) leading to Sandwich where we had booked the The Dan’l Webster Inn & Spa for the next three nights. Sound familiar? Yes. It was the same Daniel Webster that the highway was named after which we took en route to Mount Washington.

Incorporated in 1639, Sandwich is the oldest town on Cape Cod and one of the oldest towns in the United States, settled by European immigrants nearly 150 years before the American Revolution. Another historic hotel this one dates from the 18th century, previously known as the Fessenden Tavern. Daniel Webster was a highly successful Boston lawyer who had a room booked at this Tavern from 1815 to 1851.

Duck Pond

Dexter Gristmill

To stretch our legs after the long drive we had a wander around the town admiring the architecture but as the light began to fade on a very dull day we headed back to the hotel for dinner and a well earned Margarita cocktail in the bar where I got into a lively conversation about a Red Sox game that was on the TV. The OH ushered me out before there was any blood shed.

A sign I still regret not having bought!

Postcards from Around the World

Leaf Peeping in New England (5)

On our final day in the White Mountains the weather was decidedly against us, so we headed north on another circular loop taking us through Jefferson to visit Stark, a very small and quiet place, where we would find another of the wonderful covered bridges that I was becoming quite obsessed with.

It’s not just Stark itself that makes the trip worth it, it’s all of the towns, scenic stops, bridges and bodies of water you come across on the drive through the New Hampshire mountains.

After Stark we continued to Berlin and Errol over to the Umbagog Lake, hoping to find some colourful reflections.

You’ll come across many logging trucks in this region

After a brief stop we continued along the ME-26 into Maine and the Grafton Notch State Park, stopping off at Mother Walker Falls to stretch our legs.

Despite the weather it was an enjoyable day out. The roads around this area are well maintained and the views stunning. One last stop was in a rainy Jackson for, yes, you guessed it, another covered bridge.

Our last evening we drove down the road to a diner where I had nachos. I swear the plate I got could have fed a family of four, despite my best intentions the pile never seemed to go down! We had a fabulous stay in the White Mountains, but now it was time to head back to Boston and on to Cape Cod for the final part of this trip.

Postcards from Around the World

Leaf Peeping in New England (3)

New Hampshire Route 112 is a 56.39-mile-long east–west state highway in northern New Hampshire. The highway winds across the state, connecting Bath to Conway through the heart of the scenic and mountainous White Mountain National Forest. The Kancamagus Highway is a portion of NH Route 112 spanning east to west from Lincoln to Conway. The 34.5-mile drive is a recognised National Scenic Byway.

Our first day in the White Mountains was sunny and warm so we took the opportunity to drive from our hotel to Conway and to Bath. It’s a route that is well known as one of the best Fall Foliage viewing areas.

“The Kanc” takes you through a route cut through the White Mountain National Forest with breath-taking views of the White Mountains, the Swift River, Lower Falls, Rocky Gorge and Sabbaday Falls. There are no hotels or resorts or even gas (petrol) stations to spoil this wonderful landscape, though you’ll find them at either end of the Kanc and there are several camping grounds along the route as well as rest rooms.

Albany Covered Bridge

Built in 1858, the Albany Covered Bridge spans the Swift River. The bridge is 120 feet long. The construction is a Paddleford truss with added arches. The bridge leads to a camping ground but it should be noted that there is a 7’ 9” height restriction for vehicles using the bridge. And it is closed during the winter months to traffic. Several hiking trails can be found in the White Mountain National Forest area.

Rocky Gorge

About 10,000 years ago, a mile high sheet of ice covered Rocky Gorge and all of the White Mountains. When it melted, torrents of glacial melt water started the process of carving Rocky Gorge creating a waterfall over thousands of years of melting water and erosion.

From the parking lot, it is a short and easy walk along the Swift River that takes you over a over a foot bridge across the Swift River. You can stand directly above the gorge for viewing and photos. Swimming is not allowed because of an unusual event that occurred in 1942 when a young woman was trapped under the falls for 3 hours.

Just up the trail from the footbridge is Falls pond a picturesque pond surrounded by the dense White Mountain National Forest.

Sabbaday Falls

Sabbaday Falls has a gravel pathway that leads you to the edges of the falls. Swimming is not allowed at Sabbaday Falls.

The rounded rocks here reminded me of the Mossman River / Gorge in Queensland, Australia with its huge ancient granite boulders in the river.

Hancock Overlook

The Kanc highway ends in Lincoln, where we stopped for yet another break. On the Lincoln NH side of the Kancamagus Highway, you will find Loon Mountain, which offers skiing in the Winter time and other activities year round.

We continued further west to Bath to see the covered bridge there. It’s on the 302 route so a very straightforward journey back to the hotel.

Bath

The Bath Covered Bridge is a historic covered bridge over the Ammonoosuc River off US 302 and NH 10 in Bath, New Hampshire. Built in 1832, it is one of the state’s oldest surviving covered bridges. It was listed on the National Register of Historic Places in 1976, and underwent a major rehabilitation in the 2010s. (Wikipedia)

The bridge consists of four spans supported by Burr trusses, resting on stone piers and abutments, and is finished with vertical board siding.

The Kancamagus Highway does not lack its share of scenic views. There are a series of hairpin turns before the Kancamagus Pass, the highest point of elevation along the byway at 2,855 feet. There are plenty of overlooks and parking places from which you can enjoy awe-inspiring alpine and valley panoramas, with views from the height of land looking far out over the Pemigewasset River Valley to the west, Mad River Notch to the south, and down into Livermore and Passaconaway to the east (especially beautiful in the autumn colours), or perhaps you’d like to take one of the many hiking trails or walking paths to view picturesque ponds and natural wonders.

Postcards from Around the World

Leaf Peeping in New England (2)

Collecting our hire car (a very nice black Buick) from Boston’s Logan International airport we headed north to the White Mountains in New Hampshire following the I93 as far as Franconia where we turned off onto the Daniel Webster Highway (3) before joining the 302 east to Bretton Woods where we were staying for a few nights at the Mount Washington Hotel resort. (3 hour drive without stops)

We didn’t stay at the hotel itself though we did go up to have a look around and enjoy a cocktail sitting on the balcony looking at the amazing views.

Conceived by New Hampshire native Joseph Stickney, the Mount Washington Hotel opened its doors in 1902 and immediately became one of New England’s premier resorts. The hotel welcomed guests from Boston, New York and beyond, and many families would stay for the entire summer with an entourage of staff and extended family, enjoying a respite from busy city life. It was designed by Charles Alling Gifford. In 1944, it hosted the Bretton Woods Conference, which established the International Monetary Fund and the World Bank. In December 2015, the hotel and the Bretton Woods Mountain Resort were purchased by Omni Mount Washington LLC

source: Wikipedia

Views from the hotel balcony of the Mount Washington cog railway

Just off Rte. 302 in Bretton Woods is the Mt. Washington Cog Railway (base road entrance 27.8), the world’s very first mountain climbing cog railway. When the Cog Railway was first proposed, the New Hampshire legislature was so doubtful it could be completed that they gave the builder the right to build a “railway to the moon!” Today you can ride the Cog to the top of 6,288-foot Mt. Washington, as well as see “Old Peppersass,” the world’s first mountain climbing locomotive which reached the summit on July 3, 1869. (White Mountains)

One of the covered balconies at the hotel where we relaxed with a cocktail and admired the views.

We actually stayed at the Bretton Arms Inn.

We had three nights here and unfortunately the weather didn’t remain as nice as it was on the drive up here. But we did see some amazing scenery and wonderful colours.

Next time we’ll head along the ‘Kanc’.