Exeter Cathedral

Exeter Cathedral was founded in 1050 with the enthronement of the first Bishop of Exeter and construction began in 1114, initially in the Norman (Romansque) style. The two towers are from this period. A major rebuild was done between 1270 and 1350.

The north side of Exeter Cathedral, properly known as the Cathedral Church of Saint Peter in Exeter, is an Anglican cathedral, and the seat of the Bishop of Exeter, in the city of Exeter, Devon, in South West England.

Although it is 18 months since my visit to this cathedral I didn’t get around to posting about it. You may wonder why someone who is nonreligious enjoys visiting churches and other religious buildings. I can’t help admiring the craftsmanship that goes into these religious buildings. And of course they are a big part of our history.

The view from the west shows what appears to be a single tower on the left (north) side, but there is another one on the south.

White and honey stone was used to face the building, brought from quarries along the East Devon coast. Above the rows of statues is the beautiful 14th century tracery of the great west window and high up in a niche at the top of the west front is a modern statue of St Peter, the patron saint of the cathedral, depicted as a naked fisherman

Let’s head inside.

North side

Measuring approx. 96m in length, Exeter Cathedral’s ceiling is the longest continuous medieval stone vault in the world. This style of vaulting is known as tierceron. The round stones (bosses) of the vault act as keystones and there are more than 400 of them carved with a variety of Gothic images including plants, animals, heads, figures and coats of arms.

One of the bosses shows the murder of Thomas Becket, Archbishop of Canterbury by King Henry II’s knights. It is a rare survival as Henry VIII proclaimed in 1538 that all images of Becket were to be destroyed. Unfortunately I didn’t manage to photograph that one.

The Minstrels Gallery

Overlooking the nave is this unique 14th century Minstrels’ Gallery. The purpose of it is uncertain; its name derives from the 12 angels along the front, all playing medieval musical instruments including the cittern, bagpipe, hautboy, crwth, harp, trumpet, organ, guitar, tambourine and cymbals.

Part of the great west window, by Reginald Bell and Michael Farrar-Bell c.1950 depicts figures from the history of the cathedral. The central figure of St Peter is flanked by the cathedral’s founder, King Edward the Confessor and his queen.
High Altar and double arches below the Great East Window.
The Lady Chapel
The Chapel of St Saviour and St Boniface or Bishop Oldham’s Chantry.

As is the norm in any cathedral you will find a number of tombs.

Adoration of the Magi

Stories of Christian martyrdom through the ages are depicted in the stone panels of the 19th century Martyrs’ Pulpit. Designed 1876-7 by George Gilbert Scott, it shows the martyrdoms of St Alban, St Boniface and the Victorian missionary bishop, John Coleridge Patteson.

Choir Stalls by Sir George Gilbert Scott completed in 1876, with John Loosemore’s 1665 organ case
The wooden pulpit in the quire

The Quire stalls were installed by Sir George Gilbert Scott in 1876 during a 19th century restoration of the cathedral. It is uncertain when the medieval choir stalls were removed,  but the seats in the back row incorporate one of the oldest sets of misericords. Unfortunately they are not in good condition and only one is on display.

The Elephant Misericord

The Elephant Misericord is the most famous of a complete set surviving from the 13th century under the Prebendaries’ stalls. The carving may have been done from a drawing of the animal given as a present to Henry III

Window by Christopher Webb (1886-1966) commemorating the bombing of Exeter in May 1942.

The clock in the north tower is an early attempt to represent the relationship of the earth, moon and sun.

A hole at the bottom of the tower door in the north transept of Exeter Cathedral for the Cathedral Cat. The cat kept down the population of rats and mice and had a recognised position as a member of staff, with salary of 13d a quarter or 4s. 4d. a year. (s = shillling and d = penny)

Memorial to the men of the 9th Queen’s Royal Lancers who died in India

Also in the Nave is a memorial to the Polish 307 Squadron night-fighters who fought the Luftwaffe over the skies in Britain. On 15th November 1942 they helped protect Exeter from potential destruction. It was dedicated on the 15th November 2017, the 75th anniversary of the day that the squadron presented the city with the Polish flag as a sign of international co-operation.

Outside the cathedral, situated on the Exeter Cathedral Green, a statue of Richard Hooker dates from 1907 and is sculpted from white Pentilicon marble from Greece. Born in Heavitree in 1554, Hooker became an Anglican priest and influential theologian. Hooker was exceptional in promoting religious tolerance.

Richard Hooker

If the world should lose her qualities. If the celestial spheres should forget their wonted motions. If nature should intermit her course and leave altogether the observations of her own laws. If the moon should wander from her beaten way, the times and seasons blend themselves by disordered and confused mixture, what shall become of man who sees not plainly that obedience unto the law of nature is the stay of the whole world?

The quotation, from Hooker’s masterwork, Of The Laws of Ecclesiastical Politie

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Heyjude

I have lived in the UK for most of my life, but when young I definitely had wanderlust and even ended up living in South Africa for several years which was a wonderful experience. I now look forward to a long and leisurely retirement doing what I like most - gardening, photography, walking and travelling.

22 thoughts on “Exeter Cathedral”

  1. Great post. Exeter is my city of the past and one I still visit regularly. I have attended a few candlelit classical concerts in the cathedral. The acoustics & ambience are wonderful. Wilbur.

  2. Exeter remains one of the few English cathedrals I haven’t visited. Your post suggests I should – if only for that astonishing vault.

    1. Yes, the ceiling is impressive. Though I wasn’t particular enamoured by the city – what we saw. The weather was off-putting and it seemed quite busy in the streets.

  3. Like you, I enjoy visiting such grand religious buildings for the historical value and simply amazing architecture. You showcased Exeter Cathedral magnificently, Jude.

    Best wishes, Pete. x

    1. They are amazing when you consider when most of them were built, though a lot of refurbishments have been carried out of course. I like to visit the ones that have something unusual to see.

  4. I visited Exeter a couple of times for work purposes but never had the chance to look around, let alone visit the cathedral, so I enjoyed this virtual visit with you. I like the colour of the stone and the stained glass (The Adoration of the Magi especially caught my eye) but the star for me is the elephant misericord! What a shame more of these medieval masterpieces aren’t visible, even if their condition is poor.

    1. It was a wet day so we didn’t explore Exeter, in fact the part we saw between the railway station and the cathedral wasn’t very inspiring. Maybe it deserves another visit on a better day.

  5. What a beautiful cathedral – I’m not religious either, and I see no contradiction in being able to enjoy church architecture and artistry. And at least nobody shouted at you in this one for touching the misericords!

    1. Haha.. no. But a clergyman did come up to me whilst I was photographing the Quire in Salisbury, so maybe word has got around 😂

  6. It’s impressive, isn’t it, and your photos are magnificent, Jude. So many rich details! Love that elephant misericord. Mention of Exeter always reminds me of Gilly. A shame you never managed to visit.

  7. Yes, I agree your photos are magnificent and certainly show it off how huge it is. We went for a day trip from Devon to here as friends took us to show where she once lived. Mind you not in the Cathedral 😉

  8. You don’t have to be a religious person to appreciate the beauty of places of worship, nor to be moved by choral singing when you get lucky enough to witness it inside such places. We’re not religious either but like you we can appreciate it all. We strolled around this very cathedral a couple of years ago on a wet day – not just beautiful but in a lovely corner of the city too.

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