Just Back From… Laugharne

…and some like myself, just came one day, for a day, and never left; got off the bus, and forgot to get on again…”

~ Dylan Thomas

Laugharne (pronounced Larn) is probably most famous for being the last place where renowned Welsh poet Dylan Thomas lived, wrote, drank and is laid to rest; he died in New York.

His Boathouse and Writing Shed overlooking the wide Tâf estuary draw in the crowds and you can even get a cup of tea at the Boathouse, though not when we visited as it was closed for filming a new film about Dylan Thomas’s fourth and final reading tour of America which is being made to mark next year’s centenary of his birth. The play “Under Milkwood” and “Poem on his Birthday” were written here. There is even a ‘Birthday Walk’, which if done on your birthday entitles you to a complimentary birthday gift. Climb up Sir John’s Hill for mind-blowing views across three estuaries (River Tâf, Towey and the Gwendraeth) and over the bay to the Gower Peninsula.

It’s not all about Dylan though, there is also a ruined castle built in the thirteenth century with more spectacular views of the estuary and out to Carmarthen Bay, an interesting clock tower on the town hall, and a unique Tin Shed Experience – a quirky 1930s – 1940s museum. It is also one of the oldest  self-governing townships in Britain, presided over by the Portreeve wearing his traditional chain of gold cockleshells.

Close to Laugharne is the seven mile beach known as Pendine Sands which was used to set world land speed records as it has a wide, flat and firm surface. Several generations of the Campbell family have raced there and there is a Museum of Speed. And if you travel a little further west you will discover the turquoise waters of Amroth, reminiscent of neighbouring Saundersfoot and Tenby in Pembrokeshire.

Carmarthenshire is often overlooked by people rushing through to the beautiful Pembrokeshire coastline, but it has much to offer itself with a new Coast Path which passes through a range of habitats including fresh water marshes, salt marshes, sand dunes and pine forests.

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I have lived in the UK for most of my life, but when young I definitely had wanderlust and even ended up living in South Africa for several years which was a wonderful experience. I now look forward to a long and leisurely retirement doing what I like most - gardening, photography, walking and travelling.

20 thoughts on “Just Back From… Laugharne”

    1. It’s well worth it, this trip was just to Laugharne, but on the other side of the estuaries are some wonderful beaches and castles!

  1. Nice work Jude. I have been to Saundersfoot and Tenby, also, I am sure, to the sands where Campbell raced, but never to Laugharne. This has whetted my appetite.
    Regards as always, Pete. x

    1. Hi Lisa, yes it is an interesting place, off the beaten-track somewhat, and from where I live it takes a while to get there (no motorways).

  2. You’ve got me hankering after Wales now. I’ve been to Tenby (donkey’s years ago) and the north coast resorts but Laugharne looks exactly my cup of tea.(or not! I thought his writing shed was one of your beloved beach huts 🙂 ) I’ll watch out for the film.

    1. It’s not a pretty town and very small, unlike Tenby with its colourful houses and three incredible beaches. Gritty I’d say, with very friendly people.

        1. The views are something special, unfortunately you can’t walk on that part of the estuary – well I never have seen anyone on the sands so assume not. But it is very peaceful and in the sunshine quite beautiful.

  3. What beautiful pictures and a great story about Laugharne, Jude. I’ve never been to Wales and would love to go! You’re inspiring me to give this some thought! 🙂

    1. Wales is a very underrated region I think, probably because it gets a lot of rain – hence why it always looks so lush and green. People flock to Snowdonia in the north, and Pembrokeshire in the south, but there is lots in between that is absolutely stunning. The landscape takes my breath away at times.

      1. I’m sure it is beautiful, Jude, and probably because of the rain, which makes it so lush. I loved England when I went in 1999, even though it rained at least some every day. I’ll have to visit Wales someday… I hope!

  4. Very atmospheric Jude, and I really enjoyed reading about a place where I’ve never been. Wales is a part of the country which still beckons and after reading this, even more so 🙂 x

    1. I didn’t start going to Wales until 10 years ago when I met my OH and moved to Shropshire. But I have made up for it since 🙂 Isn’t there some talk of reinstating the ferry between Somerset and South Wales? From Ilfracombe I believe. No that can’t be right, isn’t Ilfracombe in Devon?

      1. Yes, Illfracombe is in Devon but I’m not too sure about the ferry. I will have to look into that! I’ve been to Anglesey which I loved and I do have an obsession to see the puffins in Pembrokeshire, but all the part of the world you describe here, including the ‘inbetween’ part, looks like a wonderful place to visit 🙂

  5. Thank you for this – we didn’t rush – it took us 2 days to cover the 50 odd miles of Wales east to west, but we did take a different route so I missed this area. We spent a week in Pembrokeshire and, on thinking, I guess I have to admit we shot for Cardiff station and the train on the return. 🙂

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