Just Back From… Mid-Somerset

I have waited four years to write another ‘Just Back From’, it’s not only been the pandemic that has interfered with our lives over the last four years. My middle son has been seriously ill and hospitalised for months at a time (2017 and 2019) and then my mother-in-law needed extra support until her death in late 2018. Fortunately for us we live in a county that is visited by millions of other people each year so we are one of the lucky ones where every day can seem like a holiday.

Our first break away was looked forward to both with anticipation and some degree of trepidation. What was it going to be like ‘out there’ among people, going to restaurants, being in a town/city? We were suffering from social anxiety after over a year of keeping to ourselves.

Cathedral Green, Wells

This trip to Wells, the smallest city in England, was long overdue. I had wanted to go there last spring, but then the pandemic hit. We considered the autumn, but decided to wait. And we are glad that we did. Fully vaccinated and with a birthday to celebrate we chose the week before the half term in the hope that everywhere would be just that bit quieter and when restaurants could open for indoor service again.

Wells Market Square

It wasn’t the usual May weather: this year May has been very wet and cold, but it was hopeful for a warmer end to the week. Raincoats were duly packed, just in case, and the itinerary was left fluid. There were a few “must sees” – the main being Wells Cathedral – and Glastonbury.

A drive through the north Somerset landscape took us to Chew Valley Lake not far from Bristol airport where we had hoped to have a couple of walks and look for some interesting birdlife, but the walks were inaccessible due to repairs in the car park and the weather turned wet. We drove back via the famous Cheddar Gorge (the B3135) and the village of Cheddar, on the southern edge of the Mendip Hills, but decided against stopping. Climbing up to the top of the gorge is beyond us now and definitely not in the rain. Those who love exploring caves may like to stop at Wookey Hole, again, not for us, but we love the name!

Nunney Castle

On a drive to Frome we diverted to Nunney where there is a picturesque moated castle that dates from the 1370s. Its builder was Sir John de la Mare, a local knight who was beginning to enjoy royal favour.  It is situated in a very pretty little village with a lovely church and grounds.

Frome itself was a huge disappointment. We had considered whether we could move there given it is a market town, but it seems rather downtrodden and the dismal weather didn’t help. I was hoping for nice river walks, but we couldn’t find any.

We spent a day in Wells itself, walking the 20 minutes across fields from our B&B on the outskirts of the city to enjoy the Bishop’s Palace Gardens before going into the Cathedral. The moat around the gardens is impressive and we loved seeing a swan family complete with five cygnets.

No, not this swan, this is a sculpture

Rain arrived in the afternoon whilst photographing Vicar’s Close, so after a well needed coffee sitting in the gardens under an umbrella, we decided to give up and head off back to the B&B. Feet sore and legs tired. Walking all day is not what we usually do.

Vicars Close

We took the bus in on the Wednesday morning to visit the open-air market. Now that is well worth visiting. Lots of lovely stalls including a great fresh fishmonger. There are some great restaurants and cafes in Wells and lots of shops. The only downside was that the impressive iconic West Front of the cathedral, featuring 300 medieval carvings,  is covered in scaffolding!

Wells Cathedral West Front
Bishop’s Palace Gardens
Entrance to the Bishop’s Palace and Gardens

Our day in Glastonbury turned out to be one of the best days of the week, bright and sunny and warm. Perhaps a tad too warm for climbing up the tor, but we gave it our best.

Market Cross, Glastonbury

It is a unique town “…in Glastonbury history, myth and legend combine in such a way that most visitors cannot fail to feel the “vibes” and powerful atmosphere of the town. For not only is Glastonbury the cradle of Christianity in England but is also reputed to be the burial place of King Arthur. where many of the shops are involved in the sale of mystical objects and artifacts. Glastonbury with its myths, legends and ley lines has become a centre for New Age culture and spiritual healing.” from (The History of Glastonbury)

Glastonbury shops

The abbey and the grounds are lovely and tranquil and we enjoyed wandering around for a couple of hours before driving closer to the tor and stopping to go into the Chalice Wells Gardens for an hour. More will be written about all the gardens on my flower blog in due course.

Glastonbury Abbey ruins
Glastonbury Tor
Glastonbury Chalice Wells Garden

Whilst in the region we also headed up to Lacock Abbey and Village up north in Wiltshire, near Chippenham.

Lacock Abbey Cloisters

The whole village is owned almost in its entirety by the National Trust and the unspoilt village has been used in many period dramas such as Cranford and Downton Abbey (and for those who care, apparently some of the Harry Potter films). The abbey located in the centre of the village was founded in the 13th century, but due to covid only a few rooms were open at the time. We had a very enjoyable walk around the Abbey grounds and the cloisters at the abbey and a brief look at the the Fox Talbot Museum, devoted to the pioneering work of William Henry Fox Talbot in the field of photography, before heading to the Red Lion for a leisurely lunch and then a wander around the village. However the charm of the buildings is spoiled by the number of cars parked in the village. It is a shame they don’t have a car park on the outskirts for the villagers and ban parking altogether.

Lacock Village

More gardens were visited at the end of the week in sunnier climes, this time heading south to East Lambrook Manor Gardens, the home of  plantswoman Margery Fish who famously said “When in doubt, plant a geranium.” And yes I came away with several. A 15 minute drive from there took us to Montecute House (NT) and coffee then we returned for lunch at the Rose and Crown in East Lambrook before finishing the day at Barrington Court (NT) another 15 minutes away down the road. All built out of the lovely local honey-coloured hamstone.

We had a good week away, despite unsettled weather and enjoyed driving through the Somerset countryside and lots of little villages due to some interesting routes provided by Florence (our SatNav). If you are big on shopping then the Clark’s Village (retail outlet) on the outskirts of Street / Glastonbury or Kilver Court in Shepton Mallet, with its designer shops may interest you. We visited Kilver Court, but only to go to the gardens there which have been designed around a viaduct. They are quite interesting with the rock garden and pools and the small nursery attached has some very interesting plants for sale.

Going away in these odd times was different. It felt quite strange to be amongst people on fairly busy streets, though most people respected your space. Masks were worn in every shop and restaurant (until seated), staff wore masks or visors and tables were kept at a distance. You do have to be patient and tolerant with the service though as we found it tended to be very slow in many places. To be expected as businesses had only just opened to indoor service when we visited. Many hospitality venues are struggling for staff too. And it is best to book tables especially at the weekend and check if booking to venues is required.

PS You can tell that we are unused to going away from home. For the first time ever I managed to leave my camera battery charger at home. So many photos were taken using my phone which drained the battery as you can imagine! One way to limit the number of photos taken.

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I have lived in the UK for most of my life, but when young I definitely had wanderlust and even ended up living in South Africa for several years which was a wonderful experience. I now look forward to a long and leisurely retirement doing what I like most - gardening, photography, walking and travelling.

54 thoughts on “Just Back From… Mid-Somerset”

  1. You hit the jackpot with this lovely trip. What a nice way to start adventuring again. There were even a couple of places we’ve been – Glastonbury and Montecute House.

  2. I so enjoyed reading this, Jude. Just what I needed this sad morning. I thought I recognised the opening shot. We spent an afternoon in Wells once, mostly inside the cathedral as it was wet and I don’t have strong memories of the place. I do sort of remember stopping in Cheddar Gorge, where it was sunny but busy, and oddly enough we never went to Glastonbury. None of it will happen now, so thanks for the gentle tour. Lovely old English towns and villages, and a moat. What could be finer? 🙂 🙂

  3. I didn’t realise that your life had been so very tough lately, Jude, so this break must have seemed extra special. I enjoyed your Virtual Tour of a region I came to know quite well when my ex-in-laws lived for a few years in Glastonbury. I see it through quite a sunlit glow, even though we obviously visited in all seasons.

    1. TBH I found Glasto rather weird. No vibes at all for me, but I liked the Abbey grounds and ruins. Wells is very nice.

      1. Actually, it wasn’t really Glastonbury I remember so much as the countryside nd areas that surround it, such as Wells. Also, I knew it 30 years ago. I suspect it was different then.

      2. We, too, found Glasto to be rather weird. I am sure we caught a few flies with our mouths open on a few occasions!

        1. We didn’t hang around the town for long, but enjoyed the abbey and the chalice wells garden was ‘interesting’ in an odd way.

        2. Sounds like you had a throughly enjoyable holiday and odd places that made the better ones impress you even more. Loved Wells and met Deb (Debs World) and her husband around that area. Aussie and Kiwi meet up in the UK 🙂

  4. Oh, Jude’s, what a fantastic trip! So pleased you’ve had a break in a lovely region. I’ve briefly teen to Wells years ago, and the always intended return never happened. Bishops Castle and Glastonbury Abbey I have never seen, but both would appeal.

    1. Wells is fairly flat so getting around wouldn’t be a problem, you’d probably need one of those all terrain scooters for the abbey grounds though. There are so many places that I’ll never get to see now, but at least we can travel virtually and avoid the crowds and the airports and jet-lag!

      1. To be honest, I’m resigned to the fact that there are many, many places I’ll never see now, but at leas,t I’ve had tons of past adventures, and we can travel virtually as well! Most recently I’ve been underground, exploring the abandoned Brompton Road tube station!!

  5. I have been to Wells a few times, and love the serene atmosphere around the Bishop’s Palace. I always tied it in with a visit to one or more of the caves though, as I enjoy seeing inside those. I haven’t been back to Somerset for almost 20 years now, but I agree with you about Glastonbury, it didn’t appeal to me either.
    Best wishes, Pete. x

    1. I get quite claustrophobic inside caves or any dark places. Got worse over the years. Wookey Hole looks very much aimed at children and families now. I avoid them too!

  6. How wonderful to read this and see your lovely photos. My daughter lives in Cheddar and when we visit from Aus every few years, we always go to Wells, climb the Tor in Glastonbury and discover new walks and things to see in the area. The fact that I can’t travel to see and my granddaughter is tempered by Facetime visits and reading posts like this that allow me to travel there vicariously, so many thanks.. Just lovely!

    1. Glad you enjoyed the post Debbie, it is rather lovely around Cheddar, but busy even when we passed through on a wet afternoon! I imagine in the summer it is heaving. I’m the same with grandchildren – my son lives in Brisbane and has two young boys who we haven’t seen since 2017!

  7. How lovely to hear you have been able to take a bit of a holiday. Looks like you had a very enjoyable week, in spite of the mixed weather. Here’s hoping there are many more adventures to come!

    1. Well, it’s back home now for the summer. Hope to book something away for my birthday in October, probably another city break.

  8. I enjoyed this post on two levels, one because it was interesting and with good illustrations and two because I hope to visit Wells very soon, even next month if things go well. A friend moved there to be nearer family and it will be catch-up time for us both as ‘phone calls are fine but can’t really replace gossiping face to face. I’ve never been to Wells or anywhere in that region so I have a lot to see but not sure how we’ll cope as neither of us drive now. If I can’t see all that you did in a week, well, it leaves some for next time. So, thanks again, for that really great tour and the ideas you’ve given me.

    1. To be honest Mari you could happily spend the week in Wells. We spent a few evenings having a wander around before going for dinner. And there are buses to Glastonbury and Bath and Bristol / Shepton Mallet / Cheddar. Good range of restaurants too, so get some booked!

  9. I’m sorry to read about your son (hope he’s much better now) but thrilled that you not only got away but were able to share this feast of glorious places, many of which I’ve read about but never seen in real life. Thanks for enlivening my morning!

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