I have waited four years to write another ‘Just Back From’, it’s not only been the pandemic that has interfered with our lives over the last four years. My middle son has been seriously ill and hospitalised for months at a time (2017 and 2019) and then my mother-in-law needed extra support until her death in late 2018. Fortunately for us we live in a county that is visited by millions of other people each year so we are one of the lucky ones where every day can seem like a holiday.
Our first break away was looked forward to both with anticipation and some degree of trepidation. What was it going to be like ‘out there’ among people, going to restaurants, being in a town/city? We were suffering from social anxiety after over a year of keeping to ourselves.
This trip to Wells, the smallest city in England, was long overdue. I had wanted to go there last spring, but then the pandemic hit. We considered the autumn, but decided to wait. And we are glad that we did. Fully vaccinated and with a birthday to celebrate we chose the week before the half term in the hope that everywhere would be just that bit quieter and when restaurants could open for indoor service again.
It wasn’t the usual May weather: this year May has been very wet and cold, but it was hopeful for a warmer end to the week. Raincoats were duly packed, just in case, and the itinerary was left fluid. There were a few “must sees” – the main being Wells Cathedral – and Glastonbury.
A drive through the north Somerset landscape took us to Chew Valley Lake not far from Bristol airport where we had hoped to have a couple of walks and look for some interesting birdlife, but the walks were inaccessible due to repairs in the car park and the weather turned wet. We drove back via the famous Cheddar Gorge (the B3135) and the village of Cheddar, on the southern edge of the Mendip Hills, but decided against stopping. Climbing up to the top of the gorge is beyond us now and definitely not in the rain. Those who love exploring caves may like to stop at Wookey Hole, again, not for us, but we love the name!
On a drive to Frome we diverted to Nunney where there is a picturesque moated castle that dates from the 1370s. Its builder was Sir John de la Mare, a local knight who was beginning to enjoy royal favour. It is situated in a very pretty little village with a lovely church and grounds.
Frome itself was a huge disappointment. We had considered whether we could move there given it is a market town, but it seems rather downtrodden and the dismal weather didn’t help. I was hoping for nice river walks, but we couldn’t find any.
We spent a day in Wells itself, walking the 20 minutes across fields from our B&B on the outskirts of the city to enjoy the Bishop’s Palace Gardens before going into the Cathedral. The moat around the gardens is impressive and we loved seeing a swan family complete with five cygnets.
Rain arrived in the afternoon whilst photographing Vicar’s Close, so after a well needed coffee sitting in the gardens under an umbrella, we decided to give up and head off back to the B&B. Feet sore and legs tired. Walking all day is not what we usually do.
We took the bus in on the Wednesday morning to visit the open-air market. Now that is well worth visiting. Lots of lovely stalls including a great fresh fishmonger. There are some great restaurants and cafes in Wells and lots of shops. The only downside was that the impressive iconic West Front of the cathedral, featuring 300 medieval carvings, is covered in scaffolding!
Our day in Glastonbury turned out to be one of the best days of the week, bright and sunny and warm. Perhaps a tad too warm for climbing up the tor, but we gave it our best.
It is a unique town “…in Glastonbury history, myth and legend combine in such a way that most visitors cannot fail to feel the “vibes” and powerful atmosphere of the town. For not only is Glastonbury the cradle of Christianity in England but is also reputed to be the burial place of King Arthur. where many of the shops are involved in the sale of mystical objects and artifacts. Glastonbury with its myths, legends and ley lines has become a centre for New Age culture and spiritual healing.” from (The History of Glastonbury)
The abbey and the grounds are lovely and tranquil and we enjoyed wandering around for a couple of hours before driving closer to the tor and stopping to go into the Chalice Wells Gardens for an hour. More will be written about all the gardens on my flower blog in due course.
Whilst in the region we also headed up to Lacock Abbey and Village up north in Wiltshire, near Chippenham.
The whole village is owned almost in its entirety by the National Trust and the unspoilt village has been used in many period dramas such as Cranford and Downton Abbey (and for those who care, apparently some of the Harry Potter films). The abbey located in the centre of the village was founded in the 13th century, but due to covid only a few rooms were open at the time. We had a very enjoyable walk around the Abbey grounds and the cloisters at the abbey and a brief look at the the Fox Talbot Museum, devoted to the pioneering work of William Henry Fox Talbot in the field of photography, before heading to the Red Lion for a leisurely lunch and then a wander around the village. However the charm of the buildings is spoiled by the number of cars parked in the village. It is a shame they don’t have a car park on the outskirts for the villagers and ban parking altogether.
More gardens were visited at the end of the week in sunnier climes, this time heading south to East Lambrook Manor Gardens, the home of plantswoman Margery Fish who famously said “When in doubt, plant a geranium.” And yes I came away with several. A 15 minute drive from there took us to Montecute House (NT) and coffee then we returned for lunch at the Rose and Crown in East Lambrook before finishing the day at Barrington Court (NT) another 15 minutes away down the road. All built out of the lovely local honey-coloured hamstone.
We had a good week away, despite unsettled weather and enjoyed driving through the Somerset countryside and lots of little villages due to some interesting routes provided by Florence (our SatNav). If you are big on shopping then the Clark’s Village (retail outlet) on the outskirts of Street / Glastonbury or Kilver Court in Shepton Mallet, with its designer shops may interest you. We visited Kilver Court, but only to go to the gardens there which have been designed around a viaduct. They are quite interesting with the rock garden and pools and the small nursery attached has some very interesting plants for sale.
Going away in these odd times was different. It felt quite strange to be amongst people on fairly busy streets, though most people respected your space. Masks were worn in every shop and restaurant (until seated), staff wore masks or visors and tables were kept at a distance. You do have to be patient and tolerant with the service though as we found it tended to be very slow in many places. To be expected as businesses had only just opened to indoor service when we visited. Many hospitality venues are struggling for staff too. And it is best to book tables especially at the weekend and check if booking to venues is required.
PS You can tell that we are unused to going away from home. For the first time ever I managed to leave my camera battery charger at home. So many photos were taken using my phone which drained the battery as you can imagine! One way to limit the number of photos taken.
54 thoughts on “Just Back From… Mid-Somerset”
Drat and double drat about the scaffolding, but you’ve brought us some lovely scenes from a very pleasing part of England.
The scaffolding was annoying, but not much we could do. I got some nice photos from the cathedral so will do another post shortly.
Ah, good. All is not lost. It’s reminding me of when we went to the art gallery in Nice, because I wanted to see their Raoul Dufy collection. And they’d sent every single thing off on tour. I had to make do with some of the rather worn ‘graphics panel’ type versions located at scenic spots around the town.
A lovely selection of photos from your delayed holiday, despite your camera frustrations. The gathering clouds add drama to some of the images!
Such a beautiful area. I think Wells itself is the only part I’ve been to, and that many years ago with my sister.
If I had realised how close it is to the M5 I’d have made a detour to it long before now, the number of times we’ve been up and down that motorway!
Jude, a well-deserved break for you both in such a beautiful part of the UK. We loved touring around that area. Not as grand in the scenery as Cornwall or Devon, though still beautiful 😉 Look at those positive bunnies sitting underneath umbrellas determined to enjoy the great outdoors!
At one point we were one of the positive bunnies, at which stage I said to the OH, “time to head back to the B&B I think” When you are on holiday you don’t let the weather put you off exploring, here in the UK you’d end up staying indoors all week! I’m sure you can agree with that!
Absolutely wouldn’t let the weather deter us when over there or here. All part of the fun. “No such thing as bad weather, just inappropriate clothing” 🙂
What a delightful week away Jude thank you for sharing it with the lovely photos, what beautiful reflections. It brought back almost forgotten memories of when we explored that area way back in 1991. I hope your sons health has improved. It has been a tough few years for you so this get away would be so enjoyed.
Strange to think that 1991 is 30 years ago! Seems like yesterday.
I enjoyed reading about your week away, and seeing the country via your photos! It looks so beautiful there.
Jude, I very much enjoyed reading your story and viewing the corresponding photographs of your week away. It all seems so tranquil. The first time out does feel strange and I think your word ‘patience’ will serve us well as we begin to exit the cocoon. Stunning cathedral – even with the scaffolding.
Thank you Suzanne. I’ll write more about some of the places we visited in detail. So many photos to share!
Sorry to hear about your family’s recent health travails. Speaking of which, welcome back to a healthier world. You seem to have taken full advantage of it.
On our first trip to New Zealand I didn’t forget my camera’s battery charger but accidentally brought an almost identical-looking one for a different model (only the placement of the metal contacts was different). I called around till I found a camera store in Auckland that had a charger that would work for my model’s batteries.
The health saga continues, but at least he’s stayed out of hospital!
Luckily I had 2 fully charged batteries with me and my phone camera is pretty good.
There are many great photos here, but I especially like that of Vicars Close. All those chimneys marching along! And I had no idea that Glastonbury was anything other than a muddy field with a music festival.
Oh, and although I’ve never seen either Cranford or Downton Abbey, I have seen the Potter films. I found an interesting blog entry that showed the buildings “for real” and described which HP scenes were filmed there. Filming must be quite the money earner for the NT!
I imagine so! It is annoying when filming takes place when you just happen to be visiting on the one and only day you are in the area. Happened to us in Alnwick (not NT) couldn’t visit the castle (HP again I think) but fortunately the water gardens were open.
Oh no, that would be vastly annoying!
Vicars close is famous. Glasto was famous before that festival. I’d hate to be anywhere near when it is happening.
“Glasto”, I’ve never heard that! Sounds rather Aussie, actually.
How great to get out and be able to explore some places after such a long time. Your photos are lovely so no worries about having a “pro” camera with you. Would love to visit Glastonbury sometime and poke around the shops there and see the Abbey ruins and gardens.
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