Just Back From… Dorset

And Surrey…

(Please click on the photographs to enlarge them)

Short stopover en route at Sidmouth on the south Devon coast (The Red Coast).

The OH and I often had a spring break – either April or May. Sometimes heading for Surrey where we would spend time with my daughter and the grandchildren (if they were around) and David would often catch a train to spend a day with his daughter in London or a longer stay at her home in Colchester.

Brewery Square in Dorchester (known to the locals as Dorch) where shops, restaurants, a gym, a cinema, a Premier Inn and residential apartments can be found

This year I had to do this on my own. Thinking about whether I should move nearer to family I chose to stay in Dorchester for a week, the historic county town of Dorset and home of the Victorian novelist Thomas Hardy,  before moving on to Surrey for the early spring Bank Holiday. Dorchester gave me an opportunity to explore some of east Dorset which I haven’t visited in many years. I liked the old part, hated Poundbury (soulless) but wasn’t keen on all the traffic. It does have excellent transport links with two railway stations with a route to Bristol and one to London.

Walk along the River Frome

I walked along the River Frome. I walked around the town. I ate dinner at a lovely country inn, I walked on the Jurassic coast (shingle) had takeaway coffee and ice-cream (not at the same time) visited Wareham and Studland and several gardens. The weather remained dry, though not always warm, and I stayed in a lovely pristine quiet converted stable in the old part of the town. It wasn’t as difficult as I thought it might be. Before I met David I often had solo holidays and even when I accompanied him to conferences I spent many a day exploring on my own. The hardest part is during the evening and eating out alone. I just pretended I was away for work! And ate in the cottage most evenings.

Poundbury – designed by King Charles III when he was Prince of Wales with a mix of Victorian and Georgian architecture. This is Queen Mother Square. It’s a strange place. No road markings and free parking. Lots of cars, hardly any people. Streets were empty, playground was empty. A lot like a film set. But a good coffee shop in the Buttercross.
The Buttercross

My first garden visit was to Athelhampton Hall between Puddletown and Tolpuddle (you have to love Dorset names), those of us of a certain age will recall the story of the Tolpuddle Martyrs from history lessons. Of course being a Monday when I visited the museum was closed. I had a very nice lunch at Athelhampton including a naughty slice of treacle tart with clotted cream.

Athelhampton Hall is a 15th century manor house with award winning gardens designed originally by Francis Inigo Thomas in 1891. I of course was there to visit the gardens
The Tolpuddle Martyrs sculpture depicts George Loveless, the leader of the martyrs, staring up at the sky in despair. He was the last to be deported to Australia for unlawfully trying to form a union to press for better conditions and pay for agricultural labourers. Sculptor: Thomson Dagnall

The following day I headed for the Jurassic coast. I have been here before – most recently in 2014 (was it really that long ago?) when we spent a week in Bridport for my birthday and enjoyed a birthday meal in the Hive restaurant on the beach at Hive Beach, Burton Bradstock. This time I parked at Cogden Beach and walked along the cliff to BB. This is when I damaged my toe.

Hive beach near Burton Bradstock from the cliff top.

The drive there from Dorchester was glorious. Hidden dips, blind summits, a flash of a bluebell wood, the Anglo Saxon village of Abbotsbury with its thatched roofs and abbey ruins and driving back I had a glorious view of the famous Chesil Beach.

Chesil Beach an 18-mile long shingle barrier beach stretching from West Bay to Portland and is one of Dorset’s most iconic landmarks.

The Sculpture by the Lakes was my next stop. A gentle stroll around the two lakes where you will find a gift shop, an art gallery and a restaurant. There is also a retreat and sound baths and riverside venues you can book for a private get together.

The statue is titled “Zephyr” and was created by British contemporary sculptor Simon Gudgeon.

Holme for Gardens was on my list. Not just a garden centre, this place has a very popular café, a farm shop and a 15 acre garden to wander through. It’s a good job I don’t live closer, I could spend serious money here.

This is Butterfly Valley, I didn’t see any butterflies here, but it was a peaceful place to sit for a while and listen to the birdsong and watch swifts and dragonflies flit across the water.

Being only two miles from Wareham I stopped off to have a look at the town. When I was a child we often stayed in a caravan close to this town, but I remembered nothing about it. The quayside was full of old people, and yes, I know I am one of them, but it felt a bit like a pensioners’ day out.

Wareham Quayside

I could have gone to Corfe Castle and in fact I did drive right past it, but I have been there before and it’s still a ruin. And with the state of my foot I didn’t think it wise to be clambering up the steep slopes. Instead I drove to Studland and South Beach, another place I went to as a child. Not this particular beach though. I wasn’t impressed by the beach or the sea or the view (though Old Harry Rocks were impressive) and less impressed by the rather expensive chicken curry I had at the Bankes Arms Inn.

Depressing looking beach huts at Studland South Beach

Still I enjoyed my time driving through the Dorset countryside as my Google map seemed to enjoy taking me off the main roads – worryingly so when my cable or signal kept fading out.

After an altogether satisfying week it was time to leave and because I was almost half way there I had booked a hotel near Guildford for the bank holiday weekend so I could visit my daughter and granddaughters in their new homes. On the way I decided to have a stop at Kingston Lacy to visit the Japanese Garden there. I have driven past the sign to this NT place many times in the past as I used to visit a school in Sturminster Newton when I worked as a Lead Assessor for the IT Diploma, but never found the time to stop.

Kingston Lacy House

I was hobbling a bit by now as having had to wear flip flops for most of the week, my feet were quite swollen. I did manage to get to the Japanese tea garden, but disappointingly you can only view it from outside.

The Japanese tea garden at Kingston Lacy

A couple of hours later I arrived at the boutique hotel in a little village outside Guildford. Another interesting journey through country lanes! I grabbed a Peroni from the honesty bar and went to sit outside in the pretty garden to wait for my daughter to pick me up.

On the Sunday we had a walk in a bluebell wood where unfortunately the bluebells were pretty much over, a wander around Guildford Castle (which I’m ashamed to say that despite Guildford being a town we visited regularly when we lived in Surrey I had never been to) followed by a lovely Sunday roast in a pub next to the river Wey.

A not so blue bluebell wood.
Guildford Castle is thought to have been built by William the Conqueror, or one of his barons, shortly after the Norman invasion of England in 1066. Used as a Royal Palace, a prison and a private residence, Guildford Castle and grounds was sold to the Guildford Corporation in 1885. The grounds at Guildford Castle opened as public gardens in 1888 to mark Queen Victoria’s Golden Jubilee in 1887.

My final outing with my daughter was to RHS Wisley on the bank holiday Monday, which meant it was very busy. But Wisley is one of my favourite gardens and when living in Surrey I used to visit it regularly over the seven years we lived there. It has changed a lot over the years and a marvellous garden to stroll around. On this occasion there was a rather large craft fair going on with stalls ranging from jewellery to garden furniture. And no I didn’t buy anything though I was tempted by the Adirondack chair.

The Tropical Garden at RHS Wisley

There will be more posts about some of these places I visited over the coming weeks. At the moment I am trying to rest the foot / toe which is not so painful, but still a little red around the black nail.

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Heyjude

I have lived in the UK for most of my life, but when young I definitely had wanderlust and even ended up living in South Africa for several years which was a wonderful experience. I now look forward to a long and leisurely retirement doing what I like most - gardening, photography, walking and travelling.

14 thoughts on “Just Back From… Dorset”

  1. A wonderful set of photos documenting your trip, Jude. I see what you mean about Poundbury looking like a film set. What a strange place!

    Best wishes, Pete.

    1. I wandered around for a bit but couldn’t even see any proper shops (a very expensive Waitrose – even more expensive than the one in Dorchester itself) and a wine shop. There seemed to be solicitors, beauty clinics and property consultants. Maybe they are hidden in the arcades. I don’t know, it just felt weird.

  2. Poor toe. And poor you, with Big Decisions to make. I assume I might choose Dorset, which I also assume is cheaper than Surrey, but I haven’t got all the things to factor in which will count towards your decision. I hope you have the luxury of taking all this quite s-l-o-w-l-y. Difficult stuff!

    1. You wouldn’t get me back to Surrey. It’s way too busy for me. I’m a proper Country Mouse now. I am taking it slowly. Need to see where they end up as Spain is the ultimate destination.

  3. An interesting overview of your visit, Jude. I’m a senior also but I don’t like hanging out in places that are dominated by seniors. I feel much more comfortable among a normal mix of ages. I hope your poor toe is healing well. Cheers.

  4. It sounds like an excellent week, if you hadn’t been wearing the wrong shoes and damaged your toe, Jude. I don’t know Dorset at all, other than from travel programmes, but it does look lovely. And realistically, you need a town with good rail connections and nice level walking for the future. It makes sense to look around at your leisure. The Hall looks nice and I love the sculpture. Looking forward to seeing more xx

  5. Everywhere you describe is lovely, and all totally unknown to me. Well, lovely except Poundbury maybe. A lot of modern architecture is bland and boring but I don’t think the answer is pastiche Georgian. It was lucky you could still drive after damaging your toe.

    1. Luckily I have an automatic car so as long as my right foot is okay than all is good. Poundbury is odd, very Stepford Wives vibe.

  6. The problem with moving to where your children are is that they might not stay there. I’m sure with time you’ll be able to make the right decision. In the meantime you had a lovely break, except for the damage to your toe. I hope it heals well.

    1. I’m aware of that, it’s just where I live is a long way for any of them to visit often. I’m in no hurry. I like my Cornish home. Plus there will be lots of changes for both my youngest son and my daughter in the coming year so it’s a case of wait and see.

      1. We talked about moving closer to our daughter but we’re happy where we are and they might not stay put forever. I’m glad you are taking your time. A friend of mine, who found herself suddenly widowed, made some fast decisions and regretted them later. It will all work out for you in the end.

  7. A fabulous time away and in a lovely part of England. Have seen lots of those places on Escape to the Country. That poor toe. At least you didn’t need a toe-truck to get back 😁

    1. Haha… funny! Yes Dorset is a popular escape to the country destination. It’s sort of within reach of London which makes it attractive to those living there, plus they have big budgets. I happen to think Cornwall has the better beaches and villages though, it’s just so remote from anywhere. Especially where I live in the furthest region.

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