Friends Around the Wrekin

Those of you who have been following this blog for some time will remember that I once lived in Ludlow, Shropshire with the OH for several years (he was a Shropshire lad). We moved there to help support my mother-in-law who was struggling to cope living on her own. When we finally decided to drop anchor in Cornwall (having arranged care workers to call in daily) the OH still did a monthly journey back to visit his mum.

This song was written from that journey. But I’ll let David provide the narrative.

The song was actually mostly written on a train between Shrewsbury and Newport at a time when I was frequently commuting between Shropshire and Cornwall to visit my frail 94-year-old mother, who died a few months after, so it has particular resonance for me. It originally included a couple of extra verses about Hereford and the Vale of Usk, but after the ‘Wrekin’ chorus forced its way into the song, I decided to restrict it to the Shropshire-related verses. Maybe they’ll turn up sometime as another song.

(You may need to view this post on the actual website in order to play the music)

Lyrics

The Abbey watches my train crawling Southwards
Thoughts of Cadfael kneeling in his cell
All along the Marches Line,
Myth and history, prose and rhyme
But those are tales I won’t be here to tell

The hill is crouching like a cat at play
Its beacon flashing red across the plain
Once we were all friends around the Wrekin
But some will never pass this way again

Lawley and Caradoc fill my window
Facing down the Long Mynd, lost in rain
But I’m weighed down with the creaks and groans
Of all the years I’ve known
And I don’t think I’ll walk these hills again

Stokesay dreams its humble glories
Stories that will never come again
Across the Shropshire hills
The rain is blowing still
But the Marcher Lords won’t ride this way again

The royal ghosts of Catherine and Arthur
May walk the paths of Whitcliffe now and then
Housman’s ashes grace
The Cathedral of the Marches
He will not walk Ludlow’s streets again

The hill is crouching like a cat at play
Its beacon flashing red across the plain
Once we were all friends around the Wrekin
But some will never pass this way again
And I may never pass this way again

Historical Notes

‘The Abbey’ is actually Shrewsbury’s Abbey Church: not much else of the Abbey survived the Dissolution in 1540 and then Telford’s roadbuilding in 1836. Cadfael is the fictional monk/detective whose home was the Abbey around 1135-45, according to the novels by ‘Ellis Peters’ (Edith Pargeter).

Shrewsbury Abbey

The Welsh Marches Line runs from Newport (the one in Gwent) to Shrewsbury. Or, arguably, up as far as Crewe, since it follows the March of Wales from which it takes its name, the buffer zone between the Welsh principalities and the English monarchy which extended well into present-day Cheshire.

‘The hill’ is the Wrekin, which, though at a little over 400 metres high is smaller than many of the other Shropshire Hills, is isolated enough from the others to dominate the Shropshire Plain.

The Wrekin

The beacon is at the top of the Wrekin Transmitting Station mast, though a beacon was first erected there during WWII. The Shropshire toast ‘All friends around the Wrekin’ seems to have been recorded first in the dedication of George Farquar’s 1706 play ‘The Recruiting Officer’, set in Shrewsbury.

Carding Mill Valley – In the Shropshire Hills, near Church Stretton, connected to the Long Mynd.

‘Lawley’ refers to the hill rather than to the township in Telford. The Lawley and Caer Caradoc do indeed dominate the landscape on the East side of the Stretton Gap coming towards Church Stretton from the North via the Marches Line or the A49, while the Long Mynd (‘Long Mountain’) pretty much owns the Western side of the Gap.

Shropshire Hills on the east side of the Strettons

Stokesay Castle, near Craven Arms, is technically a fortified manor house rather than a true castle. It was built in the late 13th century by the wool merchant Laurence of Ludlow, and has been extensively restored in recent years by English Heritage, who suggest that the lightness of its fortification might actually have been intentional, to avoid presenting any threat to the established Marcher Lords.

Stokesay castle and Gatehouse

Prince Arthur, elder brother of Henry VIII, was sent with his bride Catherine of Aragon to Ludlow administer the Council of Wales and the Marches, and died there after only a few months.

Ludlow Castle (once home to Arthur and Catherine of Aragon)

Catherine went on to marry and be divorced by Henry VIII, and died about 30 years later at Kimbolton Castle. Catherine is reputed to haunt both Kimbolton and Ludlow Castle lodge, so it’s unlikely that she also haunts Whitcliffe, the other side of the Teme from Ludlow Castle. (As far as I know, no-one is claimed to haunt Whitcliffe. Poetic licence…) The town itself does have more than its fair share of ghosts, though.

Whitcliffe Common

For some time it has puzzled me that in ‘A Ballad for Catherine of Aragon’, Charles Causley refers to her as “…a Queen of 24…” until I realized he was probably referring not to her age, but to the length of time (June 1509 until May 1533) that she was acknowledged to be Queen of England.

The ashes of A.E. Housman are indeed buried in the grounds of St. Laurence’s church, Ludlow, which is not in fact a cathedral, but is often referred to as ‘the Cathedral of the Marches’. It is indeed a church with many fine features and its tower is visible from a considerable distance (and plays a major part in Housman’s poem ‘The Recruit’).

Cathedral of the Marches

RIP David: 1949 – 2025

David standing on the top of the Wrekin -25 01 2004 ( 3 months after our marriage) the only time I ever climbed up it and the only time I managed to persuade him to shave!

Garden Portrait: RHS Rosemoor

My weekend in Bude, north Cornwall was interrupted by the first named storm of the year – Amy. Sunday looked to be the better day so the one I decided to travel 50 mins across to north Devon and visit RHS Rosemoor. Not as big as RHS Wisley in the south-east, but I thought it would be nice to revisit this garden, last seen in April 2011.

The lesson I have thoroughly learnt, and wish to pass on to others, is to know the enduring happiness that the love of a garden gives – Gertrude Jekyll 

Winter Garden
Cool Garden

Asters and Pompon Dahlias in the Long Border
Miscanthus sinensis ‘Kleine-Silberspinne’
The Herb, Potager and Cottage Garden with shelter
Beautiful dahlias everywhere
Dogwood
One moves between the new garden and the original garden, created by Lady Anne Palmer, through a tunnel beneath a road passing this little bridge and fabulous Japanese maple.
Croquet lawn and Temperate House
The Stone Garden has a very Japanese feel
Cercis canadensis commonly known as Redbud trees or Judas trees
Hot colours in the form of Rudbeckias
Rosemoor House is fairly modest considering it belonged to the Earls of Orford who descended from Horace Walpole. It can now be rented out for holidays. There is a small tea-room at the side.
More asters on the veranda
The Cherry Garden – best in springtime
A Kaleidoscope of colours (Dahlias – some with bees)
The Lakeside in October is ablaze with autumn colour, from the molten leaves of liquidambars to the bright yellow foliage of Cornus sanguinea ‘Winter Beauty’ and the deep red of Acer palmatum ‘Chitose-yama’ – all reflected on the mirror-like water.

All approaches to the garden involve navigating miles of winding roads, hence Rosemoor is also one of the quietest RHS gardens, but utterly charming and demonstrating how colourful a garden can look in early October.

Jo’s Monday Walk

Just Back From… Brightlingsea Part Four

Another thing we weren’t short of. Boats. Watching the tide ebb and flow, the wind whipping up waves, the ferryman with his foot passengers, row boats, motor yachts, windsurfers and sailing dinghies was fun.

Perhaps not so much fun for this person who fell foul on a sandbank. We got quite a shock this morning and not just from the look of that sky.

Waiting for the tide to turn
1st September @ 10:40 – and yes there are people on board.
29th August @ 17:28 Our first view of the marina
29th August @17:30 – rowing club
29th August @ 19:45
31st August @ 06:17
31st August @ 09:38 – out rowing again
31st August @ 13:57 – sailing dinghies getting ready for a race
31st August @ 13:57
1st September @ 19:09
1st September @ 19:35
1st September @ 19:35

We thoroughly enjoyed our week by the water. So much to look at we were never bored.

Just Back From… Brightlingsea Part Three

One thing we weren’t short of was a dramatic sky.

29 August @ 18:56 – Rain clouds to the west and south
29 August @ 19:49 – looking south
31st August @ 19:42 over Point Clear
1st September @ 18:02 – after the rain
1st September @ 18:40 towards the west over Mersea Island
1st September @ 19:12 over Point Clear
1st September @ 19:18 in the west with the water as smooth as silk (zoomed in)
1st September @ 19:26 in the west (zoomed out)
3rd September @ 19:30
3rd September @ 19:34

I did a lot of popping in and out of the terrace doors in the evening to capture the sun setting or the rain clouds. We get some stunning sunsets here in west Cornwall, but I have to get in the car to capture one over water.

Beth Chatto Water Garden

A short walk onto the cool, emerald-green grass of the Water Garden feels like stepping into another climate. In stark contrast to the hot, arid Gravel Garden, this area features lush, moisture-loving plants.

Ominous clouds as I stepped into the water garden.
Still lots of colour.

It’s a calming space full of large, dramatic foliage and deserving of a visit on a hot day as the temperature by the water is several degrees cooler than the rest of the Gardens.

Although my garden is on the wet side these plants would be far too large.
One of the ponds
Pickerel Weed (Pontederia cordata), also known as Giant Pickerel Weed

They use the boat to clear the ponds
Thalia dealbata – the architectural leaves remain but the flower stems are removed as the flowers trap pollinators.
Goldenrods (Solidago) are herbaceous perennials known for their bright yellow flower plumes that typically bloom in late summer through early autumn.

Ornamental grasses are used throughout this garden area too.
Several types of asters, such as Aster tataricus, Eurybia radula, Aster pyrenaeus ‘Lutetia’, and Symphyotrichum ‘Prairie Purple’ and ‘Primrose Path’, are specifically mentioned as being grown or sold at Beth Chatto’s Gardens.
More ornamental grasses and the purple heads of Eutrochium purpureum, also known as Sweet-Scented Joe-Pye Weed, features large, flat-domed heads of pink-purple flowers on sturdy stems, and is attractive to butterflies.

My visit to this area of the gardens was cut short due to a very heavy rainburst, but fortunately the sun did reappear and I was able to continue my ramble. I have only ever seen these gardens in September. I wonder what they are like at other times of the year. The Woodland for instance is probably best in spring with the bulbs, at this time of year I only saw colchiums (Also call ‘Naked ladies’ as they appear in autumn without leaves) and some patches of cyclamen. Sadly flattened by the rain so no photos.

Sadly this is the end of my series on Beth Chatto’s Gardens, I hope you have enjoyed the visit and I recommend it if you are ever in the Colchester area.